Hair treatment compositions

ABSTRACT

The invention provides a hair treatment composition comprising a combination of a sugar, an aliphatic amino acid and a basic amino acid. The composition is particularly suitable for the treatment of hair which is dry, damaged and/or prone to manageability problems.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions which comprise acombination of a sugar, an aliphatic amino acid and a basic amino acid.The compositions are particularly suitable for the treatment of hairwhich is dry, damaged and/or prone to manageability problems.

BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART

Hair can suffer damage from a number of sources. For example,environmental sources of hair damage include such as exposure to UV andchlorine. Chemical sources of hair damage include treatments such asbleaching, perming and straightening, and overly frequent washing withharsh surfactant-based cleansing shampoo compositions. Mechanicalsources of hair damage include excessive brushing and combing andprolonged use of heated appliances for drying and styling the hair.

Damage to the hair typically manifests itself in cuticle and proteinloss from the hair fibre, hair fibre dryness, hair fibre brittleness andbreakage and frayed or split ends. Dry, damaged hair is particularlyprone to manageability problems, resulting in symptoms such as “flyaway”hair which is difficult to style or which does not retain a style,especially under conditions such as high humidity.

Various organic molecules and combinations thereof have been suggestedfor use in the treatment of dry, damaged and/or unmanageable hair.

For example, WO 2004054526 describes hair treatment compositions for thecare and repair of damaged hair, and for improving hair manageability,comprising a disaccharide, (in particular trehalose), and a diacid (inparticular adipic acid).

WO 2004054525 describes hair treatment compositions for the care andrepair of damaged hair, and for improving hair manageability, comprisinga disaccharide (in particular trehalose), and a diol (in particular3-methyl-1,3-butanediol).

WO 2004006874 describes hair treatment compositions for repairing andpreventing the principal symptoms of damaged hair, comprising specificbranched amine and/or hydroxy compounds (in particular3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol).

The present inventors have found that hair treatment compositionscomprising a combination of a sugar, an aliphatic amino acid and a basicamino acid show improved efficacy in the treatment of hair which is dry,damaged and/or prone to manageability problems.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a hair treatment composition comprising acombination of a sugar, an aliphatic amino acid and a basic amino acid.

The invention also provides the use of the above composition in thetreatment of dry, damaged and/or unmanageable hair.

The invention also provides a method of treating hair by applying theabove composition to the hair.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION AND PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

Sugar

The composition of the invention comprises at least one sugar.

By ‘sugar’ is generally meant monosaccharides, disaccharides and loweroligosaccharides (typically containing between 3 and 6 monosaccharideunits linked together by glycosidic bonds).

Monosaccharides are preferred for use in the invention. The term‘monosaccharide’ (as opposed to oligosaccharide or polysaccharide)denotes a single unit, without glycosidic connection to other suchunits.

Monosaccharides have the molecular formula (CH₂O)_(n), where n may beany integer from 3 to 8. Monosaccharides contain from 2 to 7 hydroxylgroups, depending on the number of carbon atoms, and either a ketone oran aldehyde group.

The monosaccharides containing an aldehyde group are conventionallycalled “aldoses” and the monosaccharides containing a ketone group areconventionally called “ketoses”. Aldoses are preferred.

Preferred monosaccharides for use in the invention contain 4, 5, 6 or 7carbon atoms. These are tetroses, pentoses, hexoses and heptoses,respectively.

In view of the presence of asymmetric carbons—one for the trioses(monosaccharides containing 3 carbon atoms) and several for the othermonosaccharides—each monosaccharide takes the form of severalstereoisomers, which can be enantiomers in the case of the trioses andenantiomers and diastereoisomers in the case of the othermonosaccharides.

The pentoses and hexoses which can be used in the invention can cyclizeto furanose and pyranose rings, respectively. In an aqueous medium,pentoses and hexoses will exist mainly in cyclic form.

Preferred aldoses which can be used in the invention are: erythrose andthreose (which are tetroses), ribose, arabinose, xylose and lyxose,(which are pentoses), and allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose,idose, galactose and talose (which are hexoses).

Preferred ketoses which can be used in the invention are: erythrulose(which is a tetrose), ribulose and xylulose (which are pentoses), andpsicose, fructose, sorbose and tagatose (which are hexoses).

The ketoses can also have cyclic forms. For example, fructose can havethe fructofuranose or fructopyranose form.

Mixtures of any of the above-described materials may also be used in thecomposition of the invention.

Preferably, the sugar used in the composition of the invention is analdohexose, most preferably galactose.

The total amount of sugar in hair treatment compositions of theinvention generally ranges from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.05 to 1%,and is more preferably about 0.1% (by total weight sugar based on thetotal weight of the composition).

Aliphatic Amino Acid

The composition of the invention comprises at least one aliphatic aminoacid.

The term “amino acid” denotes a molecule containing both an amino groupand a carboxyl group. The amino acid may belong to the L- or D-series ormay be racemic.

The term “aliphatic amino acid” denotes an amino acid having analiphatic side chain.

Examples of suitable aliphatic amino acids for use in the invention havethe general formula:CH(COOH)(NHR¹)(R²)in which R¹ is hydrogen or an alkyl group having an alkyl chain lengthof from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and R² is hydrogen or an alkyl grouphaving from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

In preferred aliphatic amino acids for use in the invention, R¹ is analkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R² is selected from H,—CH₃, —CH(CH₃)₂, —CH₂CH(CH₃)₂ and —CH(CH₃)—CH₂CH₃.

Mixtures of any of the above-described materials may also be used in thecomposition of the invention.

A most preferred material is N-methyl glycine (also known as sarcosine).

The total amount of aliphatic amino acid in hair treatment compositionsof the invention generally ranges from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.05to 1%, and is more preferably about 0.1% (by total weight aliphaticamino acid based on the total weight of the composition).

Basic Amino Acid

The composition of the invention comprises at least one basic aminoacid.

The term “amino acid” denotes a molecule containing both an amino groupand a carboxyl group. The amino acid may belong to the L- or D-series ormay be racemic.

The term “basic amino acid” denotes an amino acid which contains morebasic groups (such as amino, amidino or guanidino) than carboxylicgroups. Examples of such basic amino acids are natural and unnaturaldiamino-monocarboxylic acids, such as alpha,beta-diaminopropionic acid,alpha, gamma-diaminobutyric acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, ornithineand p-aminophenylalanine.

The basic amino acids are often isolated from natural sources in theform of salts and hydrosalts, which are also suitable for use in theinvention. Such salts and hydrosalts are formed by reaction with mineralacids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid,sulphuric acid, nitric acid, and the like, or the organic acids such asformic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, chloroacetic acid and the like. Asuitable example is arginine hydrochloride.

It is also possible to employ other derivatives such as N-substitutedderivatives and peptide derivatives. These too may be used as salts orhydrosalts. Examples of N-substituted derivatives are N-alkanoylderivatives and N-alkyl derivatives. Typically, in an N-alkanoylderivative, the alkanoyl group will have an alkyl chain length of from 3to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for exampleN-butanoyl, N-hexanoyl and N-octanoyl. In an N-alkyl derivative, thealkyl group will typically have an alkyl chain length of from 1 to 20carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for example methyl,ethyl and n-propyl. Examples of peptide derivatives are those in whichthe peptide residue comprises from 2 to 8 amino acid residues orsubstituted amino acid residues.

Mixtures of any of the above-described materials may also be used in thecomposition of the invention.

Preferred basic amino acids for use in the invention are lysine,arginine, histidine, ornithine and mixtures thereof. Most preferred isarginine.

The total amount of basic amino acid in hair treatment compositions ofthe invention generally ranges from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.05 to1%, and is more preferably about 0.1% Thy total weight basic amino acidbased on the total weight of the composition).

Product Form

Hair treatment compositions according to the invention may suitably takethe form of shampoos, conditioners, sprays, mousses, gels, waxes orlotions.

Particularly preferred product forms are shampoos, post-washconditioners (leave-in and rinse-off) and hair treatment products suchas hair oils and lotions.

Shampoo Compositions

Shampoo compositions of the invention are generally aqueous, i.e. theyhave water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystallinephase as their major component.

Suitably, the shampoo composition will comprise from 50 to 98%,preferably from 60 to 90% water by weight based on the total weight ofthe composition.

Anionic Cleansing Surfactant

Shampoo compositions according to the invention will generally compriseone or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmeticallyacceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Examples of suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkylsulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoylisethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ethersulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl etherphosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof,especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- andtriethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated.The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl etherphosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof maycontain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units permolecule.

Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions ofthe invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium laurylsulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate,sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammoniumlauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolaminedodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laurylisethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-laurylsarcosinate.

Preferred anionic cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate,sodium lauryl ether sulphate (n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodiumlauryl ether sulphosuccinate (n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammoniumlauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (n)EO, (where n is from1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid(n)EO (where n is from 10 to 20).

Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may alsobe suitable.

The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositionsof the invention generally ranges from 0.5 to 45%, preferably from 1.5to 35%, more preferably from 5 to 20% by total weight anionic cleansingsurfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

Further Ingredients

Optionally, a shampoo composition of the invention may contain furtheringredients as described below to enhance performance and/or consumeracceptability.

Co-Surfactant

The composition can include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic,physical or cleansing properties to the composition.

An example of a co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, which can beincluded in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 8%, preferably from 2 to 5% byweight based on the total weight of the composition.

For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included inshampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products ofaliphatic (C₈-C₁₈) primary or secondary linear or branched chainalcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide andgenerally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkylalkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and cocomono-isopropanolamide.

Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoocompositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs).Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected(optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosylgroups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:RO-(G)_(n)wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may besaturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.

R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₅ to about C₂₀.Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₈ toabout C₁₂. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 andabout 10.5. G may be selected from C₅ or C₆ monosaccharide residues, andis preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprisingglucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof.Preferably G is glucose.

The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 toabout 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies from about 1.1 toabout 2. Most preferably the value of n lies from about 1.3 to about1.5.

Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commerciallyavailable and include for example those materials identified as: OramixNS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.

Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included incompositions of the invention include the C₁₀-C₁₈ N-alkyl (C₁-C₆)polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C₁₂-C₁₈ N-methyl glucamides,as described for example in WO 92 06154 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,194,639, andthe N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C₁₀-C₁₈N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.

A preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionicsurfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0.5 to about8%, preferably from 1 to 4% by weight based on the total weight of thecomposition.

Examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amineoxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines(sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkylamphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkylamidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, whereinthe alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typicalamphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of theinvention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine,lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate.

A particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant iscocamidopropyl betaine.

Mixtures of any of the foregoing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactantsmay also be suitable. Preferred mixtures are those of cocamidopropylbetaine with further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as describedabove. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant issodium cocoamphoacetate.

The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or anyemulsifier) in a shampoo composition of the invention is generally from1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, more preferably from 10 to 25% bytotal weight surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

Cationic Polymers

Cationic polymers are preferred ingredients in a shampoo composition ofthe invention for enhancing conditioning performance.

Suitable cationic polymers may be homopolymers which are cationicallysubstituted or may be formed from two or more types of monomers. Theweight average (M_(w)) molecular weight of the polymers will generallybe between 100 000 and 2 million daltons. The polymers will havecationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium orprotonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof. If the molecular weightof the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect is poor. If toohigh, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leadingto stringiness of the composition when it is poured.

The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as asubstituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationicpolymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can containspacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of thecationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymershaving a cationic charge density in the required range, which isgenerally from 0.2 to 3.0 meq/gm. The cationic charge density of thepolymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described inthe US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinylmonomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalitieswith water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl anddialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone andvinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferablyhave C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Othersuitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride,propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines,depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. Ingeneral secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, arepreferred.

Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerised in theamine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

The cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derivedfrom amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/orcompatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example:

-   -   cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers        including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride        homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and        dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry        (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively;    -   mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- and        co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5        carbon atoms, (as described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,009,256);    -   cationic polyacrylamides (as described in WO95/22311).

Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharidepolymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starchderivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.

Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of theinvention include monomers of the formula:A-O—[R—N⁺(R¹)(R²)(R³)X⁻],wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch orcellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene,polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R¹,R² and R³ independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl,alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety(i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R¹, R² and R³) is preferably about 20or less, and X is an anionic counterion.

Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternaryammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) asPolyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the AmercholCorporation, for instance under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternarynitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Pat. No.3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. asdescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,958,581).

A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that canbe used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guarhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available fromRhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials areJAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14, JAGUAR C15, and JAGUAR C17.

Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used.

Cationic polymer will generally be present in a shampoo composition ofthe invention at levels of from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 1%,more preferably from 0.08 to 0.5% by total weight of cationic polymerbased on the total weight of the composition.

Suspending Agent

Preferably an aqueous shampoo composition of the invention furthercomprises a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selectedfrom polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid,copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers ofcarboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linkedcopolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharidegums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acylderivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate,alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms andmixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impartpearlescence to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is availablecommercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers ofacrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used;they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylicacid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. AllCarbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich.

Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters arePemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum isxanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.

Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred isa mixture of cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline longchain acyl derivative.

Suspending agent will generally be present in a shampoo composition ofthe invention at levels of from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 6%,more preferably from 0.9 to 4% by total weight of suspending agent basedon the total weight of the composition.

Conditioner Compositions

Conditioner compositions will typically comprise one or more cationicconditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitablefor topical application to the hair.

Preferably, the cationic conditioning surfactants have the formulaN⁺(R¹)(R²)(R³)(R⁴) wherein R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ are independently (C₁ toC₃₀) alkyl or benzyl.

Preferably, one, two or three of R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ are independently (C₄to C₃₀) alkyl and the other R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ group or groups are(C₁-C₆) alkyl or benzyl.

More preferably, one or two of R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ are independently (C₆to C₃₀) alkyl and the other R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ groups are (C₁-C₆) alkylor benzyl groups. Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or moreester (—OCO— or —COO—) and/or ether (—O—) linkages within the alkylchain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or morehydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, foralkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The alkyl groups maybe saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds(e.g., oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkylchain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

Suitable cationic conditioning surfactants for use in conditionercompositions according to the invention include cetyltrimethylammoniumchloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride,tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride,octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride,hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammoniumchloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride,stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammoniumchloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammoniumchloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad2HT/75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride,PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof.Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having theCTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18.Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. Aparticularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditionersaccording to the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, availablecommercially, for example as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese. Anotherparticularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditionersaccording to the invention is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride,available commercially, for example as GENAMIN KDMP, ex Clariant.

Another example of a class of suitable cationic conditioning surfactantsfor use in the invention, either alone or in admixture with one or moreother cationic conditioning surfactants, is a combination of (i) and(ii) below:

(i) an amidoamine corresponding to the general formula (I):

-   -   in which R¹ is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon        atoms,    -   R² and R³ are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of        from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and    -   m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and

(ii) an acid.

As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenylchain.

Preferred amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) inwhich

R¹ is a hydrocarbyl residue having from about 11 to about 24 carbonatoms,

R² and R³ are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkylgroups, having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and

m is an integer from 1 to about 4.

Preferably, R² and R³ are methyl or ethyl groups.

Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e. an ethylene or propylene group.

Preferred amidoamines useful herein includestearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine,stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine,palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine,palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine,behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine,behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine,arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine,arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, andmixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred amidoamines useful herein arestearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixturesthereof.

Commercially available amidoamines useful herein include:stearamidopropyldimethylamine with tradenames LEXAMINE S-13 availablefrom Inolex (Philadelphia Pa., USA) and AMIDOAMINE MSP available fromNikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with a tradenameAMIDOAMINE S available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with atradename INCROMINE BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England),and various amidoamines with tradenames SCHERCODINE series availablefrom Scher (Clifton N.J., USA).

Acid (ii) may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable ofprotonating the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition. Suitableacids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaricacid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixturesthereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting ofacetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, andmixtures thereof.

The primary role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hairtreatment composition thus forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situin the hair treatment composition.

The TAS in effect is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium orpseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

Suitably, the acid is included in a sufficient amount to protonate allthe amidoamine present, i.e. at a level which is at least equimolar tothe amount of amidoamine present in the composition.

In conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic conditioningsurfactant will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05to 7.5%, most preferably 0.1 to 5% by total weight of cationicconditioning surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

Conditioners of the invention will typically also incorporate a fattyalcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants inconditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous,because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which thecationic surfactant is dispersed.

Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, morepreferably 16 to 22. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containingstraight chain alkyl groups. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols includecetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of thesematerials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overallconditioning properties of compositions of the invention.

The level of fatty alcohol in conditioners of the invention willgenerally range from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, morepreferably from 0.2 to 7%, most preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight ofthe composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fattyalcohol is suitably from 1:1 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:8,optimally from 1:2 to 1:5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant tofatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from thecomposition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky forsome consumers.

Hair Oils and Lotions

Compositions of the invention may suitably take the form of a hair oil,for pre-wash or post-wash use. Typically, hair oils will predominantlycomprise water-insoluble oily conditioning materials, such astriglycerides, mineral oil and mixtures thereof.

Compositions of the invention may also take the form of a hair lotion,typically for use in between washes. Lotions are aqueous emulsionscomprising water-insoluble oily conditioning materials. Suitablesurfactants can also be included in lotions to improve their stabilityto phase separation.

Silicone Conditioning Agents

Hair treatment compositions according to the invention, particularlywater-based shampoos and hair conditioners, will preferably also containone or more silicone conditioning agents.

Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are siliconeemulsions such as those formed from silicones such aspolydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which havethe CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxylend groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol, andamino-functional polydimethyl siloxanes which have the CTFA designationamodimethicone.

The emulsion droplets may typically have a Sauter mean droplet diameter(D_(3,2)) in the composition of the invention ranging from 0.01 to 20micrometer, more preferably from 0.2 to 10 micrometer.

A suitable method for measuring the Sauter mean droplet diameter(D_(3,2)) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as aMalvern Mastersizer.

Suitable silicone emulsions for use in compositions of the invention areavailable from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GESilicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferredfor ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Suchpre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise asuitable emulsifier such as an anionic or nonionic emulsifier, ormixture thereof, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsificationprocess such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsificationusing a high shear mixer. Pre-formed silicone emulsions having a Sautermean droplet diameter (D_(3,2)) of less than 0.15 micrometers aregenerally termed microemulsions.

Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsionsDC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788 and microemulsionsDC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are allemulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable areamodimethicone emulsions such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (from Dow Corning)and SME253 (from GE Silicones).

Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of surfaceactive block copolymers of a high molecular weight have been blendedwith the silicone emulsion droplets, as described for example inWO03/094874. In such materials, the silicone emulsion droplets arepreferably formed from polydiorganosiloxanes such as those describedabove. One preferred form of the surface active block copolymer isaccording to the following formula:HO(CH₂CH₂O)_(x)(CH(CH₃)CH₂O)_(y)(CH₂CH₂O)_(x)Hwherein the mean value of x is 4 or more and the mean value of y is 25or more.

Another preferred form of the surface active block copolymer isaccording to the following formula:(HO(CH₂CH₂O)_(a)(CH(CH₃)CH₂O)_(b))₂—N—CH₂—CH₂—N((OCH₂CH(CH₃))_(b)(OCH₂CH₂)_(a)OH)₂wherein the mean value of a is 2 or more and the mean value of b is 6 ormore.

Mixtures of any of the above described silicone emulsions may also beused.

The above described silicone emulsions will generally be present in acomposition of the invention at levels of from 0.05 to 10%, preferably0.05 to 5%, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by total weight of siliconebased on the total weight of the composition.

Other Optional Ingredients

A composition of the invention may contain other ingredients forenhancing performance and/or consumer acceptability. Such ingredientsinclude fragrance, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescersor opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobials.Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective toaccomplish its purpose. Generally these optional ingredients areincluded individually at a level of up to 5% by weight of the totalcomposition.

Mode of Use

Hair treatment compositions of the invention are primarily intended fortopical application to the hair and/or scalp of a human subject, eitherin rinse-off or leave-on compositions, for the treatment of dry, damagedand/or unmanageable hair.

The invention will be further illustrated by the following, non-limitingExample, in which all percentages quoted are by weight based on totalweight unless otherwise stated.

EXAMPLE

Formulations were prepared having ingredients as shown in the followingTable 1:

TABLE 1 Weight % Formulation ingredients Example 1 Control Sodiumlaurylether sulphate 12 12 (2EO) Cocoyl amidopropyldimethyl 2 2 glycineSilicone emulsion 2 2 Guar hydroxypropyl 0.30 0.30 trimethylammoniumchloride Preservative 0.35 0.35 Perfume 0.42 0.42 Citric acid 0.17 0.17Galactose 0.1 — Sarcosine 0.1 — Arginine 0.1 — Water and Minors To 100Weight %

The formulation of Example 1 was compared against the controlformulation across a number of performance attributes, using a ranksensory methodology.

Bleached and coloured Chinese hair switches were treated with theformulation of Example 1 and the control formulation respectively.

12 panellists were asked to assess the treated hair switches. Switchestreated with the formulation of Example 1 were ranked by the panellistsagainst switches treated with the control formulation, across thefollowing four sensory attributes: “not squeaky during rinsing”, tipalignment, style retention overnight and “hair not expanded”.

Sensory data was analysed using a Friedman's two-way ANOVA for ranks.

The results (rank mean for each formulation tested) are shown in thefollowing Table 2:

TABLE 2 Rank mean for Rank mean for Sensory Attribute Control Example 1“Not squeaky during 5.00 5.40 rinsing” Tip alignment 4.08 4.64 Styleretention 4.12 4.72 overnight “Hair not expanded” 4.60 4.94

The sensory attribute rank direction is as follows:

“Not squeaky during rinsing”: higher rank is better

Tip alignment: higher rank is better

Style retention overnight: higher rank is better

“Hair not expanded”: higher rank is better

The results show that, compared to the control, the formulation ofExample 1 performs significantly (>90%) better on “not squeaky duringrinsing” during rinsing, significantly (>95%) better on tip alignment,significantly (>95%) better on style retention overnight andsignificantly (>90%) better on “hair not expanded”.

1. A hair treatment composition comprising a combination of a) 0.1 to10% by wt. of a monosaccharide; b) about 0.1 to 1% by wt. of analiphatic amino acid having the general formula:CH(COOH)(NHR¹)(R²) in which R¹ is hydrogen or an alkyl group having achain length of from 1 to 4 carbons, and R² is selected from H, —CH₃,—CH(CH₃)₂, —CH₂CH(CH₃)₂ and —CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃; and c) about 0.1 to 1% bywt. of a basic amino acid selected from the group consisting of lysine,arginine, histidine, ornithine and mixtures thereof.
 2. A hair treatmentcomposition according to claim 1, in which the monosaccharide sugar isan aldohexose.
 3. A hair treatment composition according to claim 2, inwhich the aldohexose is galactose.
 4. A hair treatment compositionaccording to claim 1, in which the aliphatic amino acid isN-methylglycine.
 5. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1,in which the basic amino acid is arginine.
 6. A hair treatmentcomposition according to claim 1, which is in the form of a shampoo, apost-wash conditioner (leave-in or rinse-off), a hair oil or a hairlotion.
 7. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, whereinthe monosaccharide is galactose, the aliphatic amino acid is N-methylglycine (sarcosine), and the basic amino acid is arginine.